{"id":69,"date":"2018-05-30T20:02:02","date_gmt":"2018-05-30T20:02:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.thevillagetrip.com\/blog\/?p=69"},"modified":"2019-06-01T16:36:50","modified_gmt":"2019-06-01T16:36:50","slug":"gone-to-look-for-america-its-all-there-in-popular-song-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thevillagetrip.com\/gone-to-look-for-america-its-all-there-in-popular-song-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Gone to look for America \u2013 it\u2019s all there in popular song"},"content":{"rendered":"

The world \u201cknows\u201d America by its music. People who\u2019ve not visited and perhaps never will conjure up images of cities and one-horse towns from the lyrics of endless songs.
\nIt\u2019s just not the same in Britain: everyone knows that Paul Simon wrote \u201cHomeward Bound\u201d on Widnes and Ditton railway stations en route from a gig in Liverpool, and many recall the novelty number \u201cFinchley Central\u201d by the New Vaudeville Band, which immortalised a few miles of London\u2019s Tube. Donovan wrote about \u201cSunny Goodge Street\u201d \u2013 but it had nothing on Joni Mitchell\u2019s \u201cChelsea Morning\u201d. No light pouring in \u201clike butterscotch\u201d in London SW3 \u2013 and probably not in NY 10011 either, but it sounds so much more exotic.<\/p>\n

With the exception of \u201cFerry Cross the Mersey\u201d and \u201cWaterloo Sunset,\u201d few songs so evoke a city as \u201c(I Left My Heart in) San Francisco\u201d, or \u201cChicago (My Kind of Town)\u201d and \u201cNew York, New York\u201d \u2013 and there are two of those to choose from: the Bernstein\/Comden and Green number from the 1944 musical On the Town<\/em>, where \u201cthe Bowery\u2019s up and the Battery\u2019s down,\u201d or the Kander and Ebb title song from Scorsese\u2019s 1977 movie.<\/p>\n

Heading west…<\/h5>\n

Sometimes the visions we conjure up are more exotic than the reality. \u201cTwenty-Four Hours from Tulsa\u201d is a case in point. On Route 66 it may be but you wouldn\u2019t get too many kicks \u2013 though you could now visit the Woody Guthrie Center. (I often try re-imagining the song as \u201cTwenty-Four Hours from Tulse Hill,\u201d a dreary South London suburb \u2013 even more absurd.) \u201cPleasant Valley Sunday,\u201d Last Train to Clarksville,\u201d \u201cBy the Time I Get to Phoenix,\u201d \u201cWichita Lineman\u201d (let\u2019s not go there), \u201cOkie from Muskogee,\u201d \u201cGraceland\u201d, \u201cWalkin\u2019 to New Orleans\u201d \u2026. There are endless songs of love, longing, regret, moving on\u2026. All so evocative.<\/p>\n

Even when the places themselves are not! I remember my first trip to the States, heading south on Highway 101 at the wheel of an AMC Concord, excited at the approach of Salinas, famous from \u201cMe and Bobby McGee\u201d. But California\u2019s \u201csalad bowl\u201d was distinctly unexciting and somehow I missed John Steinbeck\u2019s house. But never mind, in the City by the Bay, whose views still make me cry, I stood in the pouring rain at the intersection of Haight and Ashbury and wished I had at least a flower behind my ear.<\/p>\n

Battery, Broadway, Bleecker…<\/h5>\n

I came later to New York though its streets too were familiar from life\u2019s musical soundtrack: from the New Jersey Turnpike to the 59th Street Bridge, down Broadway<\/a> (where \u201cthe neon lights are bright\u201d) to Delancey Street<\/a> (not even \u201cvery fancy\u201d now, so obviously a Rodgers and Hart joke) and west to Bleecker<\/a> (\u201cwhere thirty dollars pays your rent\u201d \u2013 ha-ha!), which crosses MacDougal<\/a> (cue Fred Neil\u2019s \u201cBleecker and MacDougal\u201d) and then across to West 4th<\/a>, where Bob and Suze lived over Bruno\u2019s Spaghetti Parlour \u2013 \u201cPositively 4th Street.\u201d<\/p>\n

The opening scene of Wonderful Town<\/em> walks you straight into the Village, as two gals from Columbus, Ohio follow a guide down Waverly Place<\/a>, past Washington Square <\/a> to Christopher Street<\/a>. Even tiny MacDougal Alley<\/a> gets a mention (Betty Comden and Adolphe Green were downtowners; so too Leonard Bernstein for a while). Turn on to Sixth Avenue and the subway \u2013 and you can take the A-Train, (\u201cthe quickest way to Harlem\u201d) and revel in Billy Strayhorn and Duke Ellington. The George Russell Sextet immortalised \u201c121 Bank Street\u201d. Rufus Wainwright looked forward to rainbows on \u201c14th Street<\/a>\u201d.<\/p>\n

Lucy Kaplansky, part of the 1980s and \u201890s Fast Folk movement founded by Jack Hardy and Dave van Ronk and which coalesced at the Cornelia Street Caf\u00e9<\/a>, wrote in \u201cNowhere\u201d of
\nWalking downtown<\/em>
\nEighth Street, Washington Square<\/em>
\nStepping carefully<\/em>
\nIn the footprints someone left there<\/em><\/p>\n

For me that sums up Greenwich Village<\/a> perfectly. There are footprints everywhere. I can\u2019t walk into the marble lobby of the Washington Square Hotel<\/a> without thinking of those who tramped the stairs or rode the elevators when it was the Hotel Earle. Countless writers have stayed \u2013 Ernest Hemingway, Dylan Thomas, Patricia Highsmith and Maeve Brennan to name but four \u2013 and countless more musicians. Bo Diddley, a regular (a signed photo is in Tatyana\u2019s laundry just opposite), actually played a gig in the lobby to mark its centenary. Ramblin\u2019 Jack Elliott stayed, as did Bob Dylan (mostly in room 305). He hunkered down there with Joan Baez, who immortalised it in \u201cDiamonds and Rust<\/a>\u201d, her reflection on their celebrated love affair, as \u201cthat crummy hotel over Washington Square.\u201d Roger McGuinn wrote \u201cChestnut Mare\u201d in room 707. In a single day, Ian and Sylvia wrote \u201cFour Strong Winds\u201d (regarded by many as the best song to come out of Canada) and \u201cYou Were on My Mind.\u201d And on a cold winter\u2019s day, when the sky was grey, John Phillips wrote \u201cCalifornia Dreamin\u2019.\u201d<\/p>\n

Hotel Chelsea \u2013 eat your heart out!<\/p>\n

Downtown, where all the lights are bright…<\/h5>\n

Music was what drew me to the Village, which existed in my mind\u2019s eye and ear long before I set foot there in 1995 to report on the sessions at the late lamented Bottom Line (torn down by NYU) with Joan Baez and friends \u2013 Ring Them Bells<\/em><\/a> was the resulting album. I\u2019ve been staying at the Washington Square Hotel \u2013 now a charming family-owned home-from-home \u2013 for years and the romance of it never goes.<\/p>\n

As I wander the streets, I don\u2019t need a gizmo to hear the soundtrack \u2013 it\u2019s embedded in my brain. Two songs are often on repeat: Leonard Cohen\u2019s \u201cFamous Blue Raincoat\u201d (though the references are to Clinton Street in the East Village) and Tom Paxton\u2019s \u201cLast Thing on My Mind.\u201d Those lines about the Subway rumbling\u2026 Sometimes I hear Paxton\u2019s voice singing it, other times Judy Collins\u2019. It\u2019s there as I descend the steps of the West 4th Street station to take the D Train, hoping perhaps for a whispered escapade…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Perhaps even more than film – because our imaginations can run wild – popular music allows us all to conjure up a vision of America,”from California to the New York islands”<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":64,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7,6,5,4,12,11,8],"tags":[24,21,25,27,28,20,26,22,23],"yoast_head":"\nGone to look for America \u2013 it\u2019s all there in popular song - The Village Trip<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.thevillagetrip.com\/gone-to-look-for-america-its-all-there-in-popular-song-2\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Gone to look for America \u2013 it\u2019s all there in popular song - 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